How drainage works in an artificial turf system

Drainage is a system, not a single product. Water and urine move vertically through the turf backing, into a permeable aggregate base, then into native soil or a drain line. The system performs only as well as its slowest layer.

The flow path

  • Fibers and thatch allow liquid to reach the backing.
  • Backing permeability determines how fast liquid passes through the turf.
  • Permeable base stores and routes water while resisting compaction.
  • Subgrade or drains remove water from the area.

Backing types and drainage capacity

Perforated backings

Hole-punched backings use evenly spaced perforations to let liquid pass. They handle typical rainfall and routine pet use when paired with a well-draining base. Check manufacturer specs, but many deliver tens of inches per hour under lab conditions.

Fully permeable backings

Non-punched, fully permeable backings allow water to pass across the entire surface area. This is a strong choice for heavy pet zones, shaded areas, or installs over concrete with drains. These products generally outflow perforated styles when the base is built correctly.

The base build that makes drainage real

A great base moves water fast and resists odor retention. Use clean, angular, open-graded aggregate and compact in thin lifts.

  • Excavate to design depth and remove organics.
  • Compact subgrade and set a consistent 1 to 2 percent slope toward the exit point.
  • Install geotextile fabric if soils are soft or to separate fines.
  • Place 3 to 4 inches of clean, angular, open-graded stone such as No. 57 or similar, compacted to refusal.
  • Use a thin, permeable leveling layer of small clean stone. Avoid fines-heavy materials in high pet traffic areas.

On concrete, pavers, or rooftops

  • Add drain mat or spacer grid under turf.
  • Slope surface to area drains or scuppers.
  • Tie downspouts away from the turf where possible.

Designing for rain performance

  • Confirm soil percolation or provide a drain system if soils are slow.
  • Maintain continuous slope. No birdbaths.
  • Carry surface runoff under the turf, not across seams, using channel or French drains where needed.
  • Keep edges open and breathable. Do not trap water against solid curbs without weep paths.

Quality turf backings and open-graded bases generally outpace typical storm intensities when designed and installed correctly.

Odor control for pet use

  • Rinse areas that get frequent use. A short hose-down after heavy activity keeps ammonia from concentrating.
  • Use pet infill such as zeolite to adsorb ammonia and reduce odors at the source.
  • Apply enzyme-based cleaners periodically to break down organics.
  • Prioritize fully permeable backing and open-graded base in high-traffic dog runs.

Maintenance routine that protects drainage

  • Weekly: Hose high-use spots and remove debris that can clog the surface.
  • Monthly: Enzyme treatment in pet zones and a light groom to stand fibers.
  • Seasonally: Top off or refresh infill, check seams and edges, and flush through with a deep rinse.

When to choose each backing

  • Heavy dog traffic, shaded or enclosed runs: Fully permeable backing.
  • Typical residential lawn on well-draining soil: Perforated or fully permeable, both with an open-graded base.
  • Over concrete or compacted subgrades with drains: Fully permeable backing plus drain mat.

Installer checklist for reliable drainage

  • Test soil infiltration or plan a drain line.
  • Set slope and exit points before base work.
  • Specify open-graded aggregate. Avoid fines-heavy base in pet zones.
  • Select backing based on pet load and subgrade type.
  • Water-test the area before placing infill.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Using dense, fines-heavy base that traps moisture and odor.
  • Skipping slope or leaving low spots.
  • Installing on non-permeable surfaces without drains.
  • Under-rinsing in high-use dog areas.
  • Overlooking edge and seam detailing that can block flow.