How an artificial putting green handles heavy rain
A modern green is a permeable system. Water passes through the turf backing, travels through the infill and base, then exits to the surrounding soil or drains. Performance depends on the whole build, not just the turf.
Key components and their role
- Turf backing: Factory perforations allow vertical flow through the green.
- Infill: Clean, well graded sand keeps fibers upright while remaining permeable.
- Base: Open graded, compacted aggregate stores and conveys water efficiently.
- Drainage layer or pad: Optional on rooftops or over concrete to channel water to scuppers or drains.
- Subgrade and slope: Directs water away from structures and prevents ponding.
What controls drainage performance
- Base composition: Angular, open graded stone drains faster than fine heavy mixes.
- Base thickness and compaction: Adequate depth with firm compaction maintains voids for flow and load support.
- Slope: Target 1 to 2 percent surface fall for reliable surface flow without affecting putt quality.
- Subsoil permeability: Clay holds water. Sandier soils transmit water faster. Add underdrains if subsoil is slow.
- Edging and exits: Leave weep gaps or designed outlets so water can leave the system.
- Infill choice and depth: Clean, dry silica set to spec stays free draining and stable.
Recommended build for fast, reliable drainage
- Site prep: Grade the area to shed water away from buildings with at least 1 percent fall.
- Subgrade: Compact uniformly. Add a non woven geotextile over weak or mixed soils to separate fines from the base.
- Base layer: Install 3 to 4 inches of open graded, angular aggregate. Compact in lifts. Add a 0.5 to 1 inch leveling layer of fine screenings to dial in contours.
- Optional drainage mat: On concrete, rooftops, or liners, place a high flow drainage pad and tie to scuppers or drains.
- Turf: Use a perforated putting green product. Seam with adhesive and seam tape rated for wet conditions.
- Infill: Place clean, graded silica sand per manufacturer spec. Brush and top up to maintain permeability and ball roll.
- Perimeter: Secure edges while preserving weep paths so water can exit the base.
Heavy rain scenarios and smart add ons
- Clay or hardpan soils: Add strip drains or a perforated collector drain at the low side and daylight it to a safe outfall.
- Flat sites: Create slope within the base or use a drainage mat to move water laterally to an outlet.
- Near downspouts: Bypass roof water around the green or pipe it to a drain to avoid overloading the surface.
- Rooftops and patios: Use a drainage pad and ensure waterproofing is intact and tied to drains.
Maintenance that keeps water moving
- Brush fibers and redistribute infill to prevent crusting.
- Blow or rinse off leaves, pollen, and dust after storms.
- Keep perimeter weeps and drain grates clear.
- Top up infill as needed to maintain fiber support and free flow.
Troubleshooting and quick tests
- Hose test: Run water and watch for areas that hold water longer than nearby areas. Mark spots after 10 minutes.
- Localized low spots: Lift turf, add screened stone or sand to build grade, re compact, and re secure.
- Edge backups: Clear mulch, sod, or soil that blocks exit paths.
Performance and planning notes
- The backing usually exceeds the flow you need. The base and exits set the true capacity.
- Design for the heaviest rainfall your site sees, not the average.
- Better base and planned outlets reduce callbacks and keep play consistent.
Next step
Want a green that stays playable after a storm? Ask FusionTurf for a site specific drainage plan and build spec tailored to your soil, slope, and goals.
