Why you usually do not need to drill

Concrete is a stable base. You can create the cup recess above the slab instead of inside it. Two proven approaches deliver clean, reliable results without coring the concrete.

  • Interlocking base panels form built-in cup cavities for full depth putting cups on concrete.
  • Shock pad builds accept shallow cups or drop-in targets that sit flush under the turf.

Method 1: Modular base panels for full-depth cups

What this is

Rigid, interlocking polymer panels create a raised, level base. Panel geometry includes voids that accept standard 4.25 inch diameter cups at full depth.

Why it works

  • The panel cavity replaces a cored hole, so no slab drilling.
  • Panels distribute load, improve drainage, and keep cups square and stable.
  • Ideal for permanent or semi-permanent greens on patios, rooftops, and studios.

Install steps

  1. Prep slab: sweep clean, remove high spots or debris, confirm slope is 1 to 2 percent away from structures.
  2. Dry lay panels: interlock tightly, stagger seams, and confirm footprint.
  3. Place cups: drop cup sleeves into panel cavities and confirm lip height vs turf pile.
  4. Adhere panels if needed: use perimeter beads of compatible construction adhesive.
  5. Cut turf holes: lay turf, locate cup centers, cut clean 4.25 inch circles, and test fit.
  6. Seam and bond: use seam tape with urethane adhesive, then perimeter-bond turf to the slab or to a glued nailer strip.
  7. Roll and infill: cross-roll to relax, then add infill per turf spec and set flagsticks.

Method 2: Shock pad with shallow or drop-in cups

What this is

Elastic foam or rubber pad underlayment builds height and smooths minor slab variations. Shallow cup hardware or low-profile targets sit in pad cutouts so the cup lip finishes flush with the turf.

Why it works

  • No drilling. The pad provides the recess depth for the cup or target.
  • Fast, clean setup that is easy to relocate or modify.
  • Great for simulators, garages, rentals, and multi-use spaces.

Install steps

  1. Prep slab: clean, dry, and verify slope. Fill wide cracks with a non-shrink repair mortar.
  2. Lay pad: tape seams, keep edges tight. Typical thickness 8 to 20 mm.
  3. Place cups: mark locations, cut neat pad recesses for shallow cups or targets, and test lip height with turf on top.
  4. Bond layers: light spray or beads of compatible adhesive to hold pad and cup collars in place.
  5. Install turf: seam with tape and urethane adhesive, perimeter-bond as required.
  6. Finish: roll the surface and dress infill if specified.

Choosing your cup hardware

Full-depth cups

  • Diameter: 4.25 inches. Depth: typically 4 to 6 inches.
  • Requires modular panels or another raised base to create the cavity on concrete.
  • Best for realistic ball drop, sound, and flagstick fit.

Shallow cups and targets

  • Depth: about 1 to 2 inches. Some are solid pucks with printed targets.
  • Fits shock pad builds without drilling.
  • Best for fast installs, relocations, and low-profile surfaces.

Surface prep checklist

  • Clean, dry concrete, free of dust, oil, and loose paint.
  • Slope away from structures 1 to 2 percent for outdoor installs.
  • Feather grind proud ridges and fill wide cracks for a smooth base.
  • Plan perimeter terminations with thresholds, edging, or glued nailer strips.

Adhesion and seaming on concrete

  • Use turf-rated urethane adhesive and seam tape for field seams.
  • Perimeter-bond turf with continuous beads. Avoid puddles that telegraph.
  • In removable builds, use heavy-duty double-sided tape at the perimeter instead of adhesive.

Drainage, indoor vs outdoor

  • Indoors: dry slab is mandatory. Consider vapor barriers in moisture-prone spaces.
  • Outdoors: rely on slab slope. Do not trap water under panels or pad. Leave weep paths at edges.

When drilling still makes sense

  • You refuse any raised base yet want true full-depth cups in the slab.
  • You need a specialty ball return system that routes through the concrete.
  • A permanent, high-traffic commercial spec requires mechanical anchoring at the cup.

If you choose to core, hire a pro with wet coring gear and dust control. Verify utilities beneath the slab before any cutting.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Cutting turf holes before test-fitting cup height with panels or pad in place.
  • Under-bonding perimeters, which leads to edge curl.
  • Skipping slab cleaning, which weakens adhesion.
  • Ignoring slope, which can trap water outdoors.

Tools and materials

  • Interlocking base panels or shock pad underlayment
  • Full-depth cups or shallow cups or targets
  • Turf-rated urethane adhesive and seam tape
  • Utility knife with sharp hooked blades, 4.25 inch hole template, straightedge
  • Heavy roller, broom, and vacuum

Quick spec guide

  • Full-depth on concrete: panel base 1 to 2 inches thick with integrated cup cavities.
  • Shallow on concrete: pad 8 to 20 mm with low-profile cups or targets, pad recess cut to set lip flush.
  • Edge finish: glue-down to slab or to glued composite nailer strips for a crisp perimeter.