When extra drains make sense

Artificial turf drains vertically through the backing and base. Most residential and commercial installs do not need added pipes. You add drains when the subgrade cannot move water fast enough or when runoff concentrates in the turf area.

  • Clay or compacted soils that infiltrate slowly.
  • Flat grades under 1 percent or bowl-shaped areas with low points.
  • Large continuous fields that collect sheet flow.
  • Tight courtyards or enclosed spaces with walls, curbs, or edging that trap water.
  • Downspouts or hardscape draining onto the turf.
  • High rainfall regions or sites with a high water table.

How artificial turf drains by default

The turf backing and perforations allow water to pass into a permeable base made from clean, angular rock. With proper grading and compaction, the base sheds water to subgrade and edges.

  • Backing permeability is typically more than local rainfall rates, so the soil and base control performance.
  • A well-built base uses clean, washed stone with fines capped at the surface, not surrounding pipes.
  • Perimeter relief and slope matter. Even a small fall directs water away from the field.

Simple field check: 10-minute infiltration test

  1. Dig a hole about 12 inches wide and 6 inches deep in native soil where turf will sit.
  2. Pre-wet once, then refill to 4 inches of water.
  3. Measure how fast the water drops over 10 minutes.
  • Faster than 1 inch per hour: soil is usually fine without added drains.
  • Slower than 1 inch per hour: plan for a drain path or a tied-in pipe.

French drain vs perforated pipe under turf

French drain

A gravel-filled trench with or without a perforated pipe that intercepts and moves groundwater or surface runoff to an outfall. Best along low lines or edges where water collects.

Collector or header pipe

Perforated or slotted pipe set within the base to collect water and carry it to a discharge point. Useful for tying in downspouts or relieving enclosed areas.

Outfall options

  • Daylight to grade on a lower slope where allowed.
  • Dry well sized for local rainfall and soil infiltration.
  • Approved storm connection where permitted by code.

Never connect to a sanitary sewer. Always follow local codes.

Design basics that work

  • Slope: Aim for 1 to 2 percent fall across the base toward the drain path or pipe.
  • Trench: Keep the drain trench below the base grade so the surface stays uniform.
  • Pipe: Use 4 inch perforated pipe for most residential lines. Increase size for large fields or multiple tie-ins.
  • Aggregate: Use clean, washed stone around the pipe. Avoid fines that clog perforations.
  • Separation: Wrap the drain trench with nonwoven geotextile to keep soil fines out of the rock.
  • Cover: Maintain at least 2 inches of base over the drain to prevent telegraphing through the turf.
  • Cleanouts: Add accessible cleanouts at ends or turns for future flushing.

What to do before you add a drain

  • Fix grade first. Minor regrading often solves standing water without pipe.
  • Redirect downspouts away from the turf or tie them into a drain line.
  • Confirm a legal, safe outfall that will not cause erosion or neighbor issues.

Typical cost ranges

  • French drain under turf: about 25 to 50 dollars per linear foot depending on depth, access, and discharge.
  • Simple collector pipe to daylight or dry well: about 20 to 40 dollars per linear foot plus any dry well materials.

Actual costs vary by region, excavation difficulty, and disposal fees. Get a site-specific quote.

Common mistakes to avoid

  • No outfall or an outfall that sits higher than the drain.
  • Using pea gravel or materials with fines around the pipe that clog fast.
  • Too shallow cover over the pipe leading to surface dips.
  • Skipping geotextile, which lets fines migrate and reduce capacity.
  • Routing to a sanitary sewer, which is not permitted.

Maintenance and verification

  • Watch performance after the next heavy storm. Note any spots that still pond.
  • Flush cleanouts annually if you receive heavy debris from roofs or trees.
  • Keep downspout screens clear so leaves do not enter the system.

How FusionTurf helps

We back bold design with proven details. Our team and dealer network can review your site, run a quick drainage check, and specify the right base or drain layout. No gimmicks, just a turf system that works in real weather.

  • Site assessment and grading plan.
  • Drainage details and material specs.
  • Local dealer install and warranty documentation.

Ready to dial in your drainage plan so the turf performs from day one? Visit find.fusionturf.com to connect with a FusionTurf pro.